Bilbao and the Basque country
Hello,
It was quite a while since you heard from me. Since my last newsletter a lot of things have happened. I have been to Karlskrona, on the south east coast of Sweden to celebrate dad’s 100th birthday. It was indeed a big day and family visited and we had a great time. My father is very healthy, lives on his own and takes care of everything in the house; shopping, cooking, cleaning, washing etc. On top of that he goes to the gym a couple of times a week. The highlight was a telegram from the King and Queen.
Coming back home I was stuck with a sinusitis infection and was down and out for more than a week. I just managed to recuperate, so I could enjoy the trip to Bilbao which was organised by the Swedish branch of AIACE, a group for EU retirees. Always a great group of people and we had a great time, with a full program from morning to evening. I had to rest a few day coming home.
Bilbao
Bilbao is the tenth biggest city in Spain and situated in the northern part of the country, the Basque country. It has around 350.000 inhabitants. Founded in the 13th century by Diego López V de Haro, it turned into a commercial center of the region and of significant importance for the Crown. Relying on its vicinity to the sea with a port, it became an area thriving from commerce and industrialisation.
In 2010 the city of Bilbao received the Lee Kuan Yew World City Prize, awarded by Singapore, and considered the Nobel Prize for urbanism. For many years the city was rebuilt and added new buildings in a wonderful mix of old and new styles. It was a positive surprise to walk around in this beautiful city, full of interesting buildings and surroundings. It looks all modern, but keeps its historic touch and feel.
The centre and old city are easy accessible by foot and as you walk along the Nervión river, slowly moving through the city, you are hit by a good and pleasant feeling. We had a guided tour around the old city, with its narrow alleys, shops, cafés and restaurant, churches and old houses. A wonderful place to be.
Guggenheim
One of the most popular sites in Bilbao is, of course, the Guggenheim museum. It is a fantastic building, although some call it a little bit weird. Surrounded by waterways and sculptures, you walk over a bridge to come to the entrance. Designed by Canadian American architect Frank Gehry, it adds to the spectacular architecture you find in Bilbao. It probably would not fit in as well in another city. My photos can not make it justice, but you can find some spectacular photos on Guggenheim’s own website: https://www.guggenheim-bilbao.eus/en/the-building . There are also photos from inside.
Coming inside you enter a huge room, almost like a cathedral where you look up the height of the house to all the floors. It houses temporary exhibitions of modern art. I am personally, not so much interested in modern art, but found two very interesting exhibitions. One with Brazilian artist Tarsila do Amaral: Painting Modern Brazil. You got a good insight into her life and deeds, and interesting paintings. The other exhibition which turned out to be very interesting was Masterpieces on Paper from Budapest. Drawings from famous artists through the centuries; Leonardo da Vinci, Goya, Breughel, Dürer, Rubens, Rembrandt and many more.
San Sebastián
From Bilbao we continued north to the Bay of Biscay to visit San Sebastián. We started by taking the funicular Monte Igueldo 181 m up the mountain. It was opened in 1912, and you can still feel the atmosphere from the old wagon, as it struggles up the mountain side. From up there you have a magnificent view over the bay.
The city itself has a varied history, shaped by its position at the sea. As usual in these parts, its history goes back to the Romans, when a tribe called Varduli lived here. The city was officially founded in 1180 by King Sancho VI of Navarre. During the Medieval times and into the modern period, the city developed as a key port and military stronghold. Due to its location it was often caught in conflicts between Castile and France. Most of the old town was destroyed during the Peninsular War against Napoleon, and was later rebuilt in a neoclassical style.
In the last centuries it has been a fashionable seaside resort, also favoured by Spanish Royalty. The era can be seen in the grand architecture that still dominates the city. During the Spanish Civil War and under Franco’s regime, the city faced political tension and became known for its strong Basque identity. Today it is a popular holiday resort, one of those places with too much tourists. It is also know for a film festival, which sees many international stars visiting the city.
We were lucky, the guide told us, there was hardly any people in the old city. We walked down the small alleys, looked at churches, squares and beautiful houses. Then we had some free time so we headed to a small, sunny square where we had some pintxos and a glass of wine. We could not leave the city without tasting their own special cheesecake, so we headed to a café on the main street. It was very good, but rather heavy. Back to the bus to continue our trip into the Basque Rioja area. No rest for the wicked.