Quote of the week
“By day Lisbon has a naive theatrical quality that enchants and captivates, but by night it is a fairy-tale city, descending over lighted terraces to the sea, like a woman in festive garments going down to meet her dark lover.”
Erich Maria Remarque
Hello friends,We have moved away from Lisbon when I write this, but t a week enjoying the old city quarters and visiting placWes to remember. We mostly walked around the old, small, cobbly streets, which, for some reason, always seemed to turn up the hills. Lisbon is a hilly place so I could rarely enjoy my usual habitat, that is, the plains. Well, well, what to do but to enjoy the views over the sea and the city as it gives you. Below some of the places we visited that gave us food for thoughts and made us venture into our favourite subject: history.
Lisbon
Where to start if not with a history of the city. We visited Lisboa Story Center which gave a short history of the establishment of the city and its glory past when seafarers discovered land on other continents.
Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in western Europe. The region was first settled by Celts, before it was founded by another seafaring nation or people; the Phoenicians. Who else? They called the place Ulissipo, but was soon conquered by the Greeks and Carthagians, who called it Olissipo. Close enough. Then, of course, came the Romans who integrated the city in the province of Lusitania. Lusitania pops up everywhere when you are travelling Portugal. When the Roman empire collapsed, the area was invaded by Germanic tribes.
Muslim period and Lisbon’s reconquest
In the year 711, the Islamic Moors invaded the Peninsula. They renamed the city al-Usbuma. In 789, Alfonso II of Asturias managed to reconquer the city and held it until 808. In 1147 the Christians retook it, led by Alfonso I. Lisbon became the base for Portugal’s maritime expansion during Alfonso III’s reign, and he moved the capital to Lisbon from Coimbra. It was not until the end of the 14th century, when the merchant oligarchy from the House of Aviz took control, that the city began to flourish.
The Renaissance
From the 15th century onwards, the port of Lisbon became one of the most important in the world. A group of warehouses and customs offices were established in the capital. This organization managed all aspects of overseas trade giving the city great powers. As usual in those days, wealth attracted numerous citizens from Genoa, Flanders, and Mallorca, of which the city gained maritime knowledge. The 16th century saw the establishment of the Casa da India which began to do business with Asia, Africa, and Brazil. The city became even wealthier, and the most important slave trade center in Europe. In the end of the 16th century the Duke of Alba conquered Portugal and the Spanish King Philip II was recognized as King of Portugal. In 1640 independence was restored. Portugal’s largest colony, Brazil, transformed Lisbon into an even wealthier city.
On 1 November 1755, Lisbon suffered a terrible earthquake that destroyed a large part of it. The 1st Marquis of Pombal used the riches from Brazil to rebuild Lisbon Baixavenues. The structure of this area is still seen today with its straigth, parallell streetsll leading down to the sea and the square of Commerce. Napoleon invaded in 1807 but it was recaptured by the British, under the Duke of Wellington, during the Peninsular Wars. The Duke of Wellington went on to become even more famous after the Battle of Waterloo. In 1833 the constitutional monarchy was reinstated. It endured until the Republic was declared in 1910.
What to do
The Alfama district is a must for a visit to Lisbon. We walked around the atmospheric alleys, that wound themselves up the hill. We visited the Cathedral and the Naational Pantheon. The latter a magnificent piece of art housing the tombs of historic celebrities. It is built on the original site of the church of Santa Engrácia. Founded in the 16th century it was rebuilt in the 17th century. It was never used as a place of worship. Under the huge dome you feel quite small. Beautiful decorations typical of the Portuguese Baroque.
More to see, and more to come, but I stop here for today. Today is the 5 January and the last of the end of the year holidays are upon us. We had a lovely dinner on Christmas eve in a very nice restaurant. Afterwards a small walk and then back to the hotel for a rest. In the evening a slow stroll in the city. So wonderful without all the musts of Christmas which otherwise is upon you. New Year we celebrated in
Coimbra. Found a nice restaurant with a menu set for the end of the year. A stroll in the city to listen to Gypsy Kings who performed at the square. I think today will probably be the same as we are heading out to the sea from the city of Braga.
Wish you all a Happy New Year and all the best for 2023.
Links
Not much is happening on my blog for the time being. Hope to have some time in the next couple of days. The two last blog posts you find here:
This is fascinating, Lisbeth, and I just love that you are including the history and photos of your journey. And thanks for including the links to the blog!