On top of the world
Quote of the week
It feels great to be on top of the world but the greatest feeling is when your feet are on the ground.
Felix Baumgartner
Hello,
Another newsletter somewhat late. The internet connections in Greece are poor. But, we have to take life as it comes, but therefore no pictures this time. Yes, we reached Greece about a week ago. However, I have two more visits in Albania to talk about.
National Park of Butrint
This is the biggest archeological site in Albania, pleasantly situated under trees which give you the shade you need on a hot day. The city, which dates back to the 8th century BC, is a unique testimony of Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman cultures and civilisations. The usual suspects in other word.
The ancient city was known as Buthrotum, and according to legend it was founded by the exiles who left Troy after its fall. This sounds interesting and I think I have to investigate further. At least I, have never heard what happened to the people who survived Troy.
It is a pleasant walk around the city which contains the usual building and institutions of a Roman city. The city was surrounded by a huge wall where some of the gates are still standing today. Ali Pasha (who seems to turn up everywhere in these areas, as well as Lord Byron who visited him a couple of times) build a fortress here to protect him from French attacks from Corfu, at the beginning of the 19th century. After his death it passed on to the Ottoman rule, up to the Declaration of Independence.
Today a peaceful area, UNESCO World Heritage, with a huge park with wetland areas, diverse flora and fauna which are protected.
Gjirokaster
The city is described as “a rare example of oa well-preserved Ottoman town, built by farmers of large estate”. High above the city the Fortress is keeping guard over the surroundings. It was a scary trip with our car through the old, narrow alleys up to the top, not to talk about driving down again.
First records appear in 1336 as part of the Byzantine Empire. As usual, various fractions fought about control, and in 1418 it came under the Ottomans. This is an influence you see in the city today. It is wonderful to walk through the it, which is like a big bazaar of shops, restaurants and coffee shops. We, who have lived in Egypt, felt quite at home walking the streets.
We visited the Skenduli house which belonged to one of the important families in Gjirokaster at the time. It is an Ottoman house, lying high on the hill with a fabulous view over the city and valley. The guide turned out to be the 9th generation of the family. During communist time the house was taken away from the family and they just recently got it back. It is in dire need of repair, but funds are missing. It nevertheless gives you a vision on how a wealthy Ottoman family lived in those days.
Greece
From there we went to Greece and stayed the first night up in the Vikos National Park. The day after we went on serpentine roads up and down the mountains, visiting the small beautiful villages of Papingo, enjoying a sour cherry lemonade under the vine leaves.
From there on to the viewing point of the Vikos gorge which was amazing. Views along the gorge, left and right. Personally, I was happy to see it from above, not having to walk for hours through the gorge. That would be a total different experience of course.
Stopping for lunch on the way back, in a small village with a view of the surrounding gorge. Great lunch. The owner told us that there are only 70 old people living permanently in the village. The village survives solely on tourism in the summer months and is then more or less closed down.
Next week we will venture into the classical world.