Byzantium
Quote of the week
Writing for children is as easy as describing the history of the Byzantium in three words.
Mo Willems
Hello,
While travelling around Greece one can’t help notice that the country is a mix of different cultures. Not surprisingly, considering the historical background. Here are remnants from Ancient Greece, Hellenism, Roman times, Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire. Its independence came in the beginning of the 19th century. Thus it is difficult to put Greece into a typical western, European country for example. Here are traditions also from Turkish and North African culture, making it a wonderful mix. This week I will talk about visiting two Byzantine villages, which are really magic.
The Byzantine Empire, also referred to as the Eastern Roman Empire, was the continuation of the Roman Empire primarily in its eastern provinces during Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages, when its capital city was Constantinople. It survived the fall of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century AD and continued to exist until the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire in 1453. During most of its existence, the empire remained the most powerful economic, cultural, and military force in the Mediterranean world. Its citizens continued to refer to their empire as the Roman Empire and to themselves as Romans - a term which Greeks continued to use for themselves into Ottoman times. Modern historians distinguish the Byzantine Empire from the earlier Roman Empire due to the imperial seat moving from Rome to Byzantium, the empire's integration of Christianity, and the predominance of Greek instead of Latin. (from Wikipedia)
Mystras
Mystras is situated just outside the classical town of Sparta. Sparta is today, a rather terrible looking city, and it is better to head directly towards Mystras. Even the name sounds magic. Mystras is a fortified town, situated on Mt. Taygetus. In the 14th and 15th centuries, it served as the capital of the Byzantine Despote of the Morea. It saw a long period of prosperity and culture during the latter stage of the Byzantine period.
The village, fortress, palace, and several churches are clinging on the mountainside. The fortress, as usual, situated on the top of the hill with a fantastic view over the surrounding landscape. No enemies could come close without notice. A little bit further down is the Palace of the Despots, which was closed when we were there. Some of the churches were open, and revealed beautiful, original paintings on the walls from the 13th century. From the village we climbed up to the Pantanassa Monastery, a mighty building, which also comes with a view. Here are still a few nuns living, the only inhabitants of present day Mystras. The ruins are really magical. The houses still stand, and it is just the roofs that are missing.
In 1248, William II of Villehardouin (whose name pops up here and there in connection with Frankish fortresses on the peninsula) captured Monemvasia. His success also led to dominion of Mt. Taygetos and he was the one who built the fortress which was the beginning of Mystras. As usually, not everything lasts forever, and in 1262 Villehardouin had to hand over the reign to the Byzantine governor, and the city was ruled by various Despots until the city fell to the Ottoman Empire in May 1460.
From 1687 to 1715 it was occupied by the Venitians, and then it was held by the Ottomans until 1821 and the Greek War of Independence. It was during this time that the Egyptians massacred the local population and destroyed the area. Most families moved to Sparta which was rebuilt close by. The present day Sparta is built on the ancient Sparta, which is why nothing remains from that time. Such a pity. A few inhabitants stayed on in the vicinity and New Mystras was founded. The relocation of people was not completed until 1953. In 1989 Mystras became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It took us a couple of hours to go around the site, up and down the mountain. Well worth it. It is quite different from other sites you see in Greece, or anywhere else.
Monemvasia
Monemvasia is another fortified city, situated on a tiny island on the east coast of the Peloponnese, surrounded by the Myrtoan Sea. There is a km long road connecting it to the mainland. To come into the village you enter through a huge stone gate, make a turn and have a first glimpse of this magical place. Small alleys leading in different directions. Today it is a thriving tourist spot, but once upon a time it was a powerful medieval fortress, and one of the most important commercial centres in the area. It is filled with Byzantine churches, town halls and flats, today mostly turned into B&B or hotels.
The town was founded in the 6th century, and there are texts showing that some kind of settlement existed even during the Minoan period (2-3000 years ago). The economic growth came during the 11th and 12th centuries. The settlement grew, churches were built and the upper town was extended. Due to its location Monemvasia developed both on the commercial, as well as on the cultural side. It prospered during the 13th to 15th centuries due to generous tax cuts, which made the city prosper. It also meant it was vulnerable and attractive to other rulers. Its history up until modern times is one of sieges, wars and fighting. After the War of Independence most houses were destroyed, but people were still living there. It was a long, hard way up to modern times, when in 1970s it began to flourish as a tourist destination. The whole town has been restored, and renovations are still going on.
As a tourist you can enjoy the small alleys, houses decorated with flowers, giving a romantic impression of the city. The city wall is still protecting it from the sea, and the commerce is in full swing. At least in the low tourist season, and if you come rather early in the morning, you can easily stroll down the alleys, and almost get lost. After our tour we enjoyed breakfast on a roof terrace, with a view to the sea. Luckily, we did not see any enemy ships nearing the island, only a few tourist ones.
On my blog this week
Actually managed to post a few blog posts this last week. Several challenges coming up in November: Nonfiction November, German Literature Month and Novellas in November. I will have a busy month reading ahead of me.
See you next week.
I'm finding this part of your travels especially fascinating. Never having been to Greece, I know about it only from history and humanities classes and, of course, movies. To walk in these places would indeed be a remarkable journey.